Basic Weapon
Care
Stage weapons, like the real weapons
after which they are modeled, are made primarily of steel, an incredibly
strong, but by no means indestructible, substance. They can bend,
chip and break if abused or not properly cared for. Steel’s
worst enemy is moisture (and the oxygen it contains), which causes
rust that in turn weakens the metal, making it more likely to break.
Steel’s greatest ally is oil, which helps to clean and protect
exposed portions from moisture and other corrosive substances. Every
steel weapon should be stored in a dry area after a thorough oiling
with light or medium viscosity oil such as gun oil or, our personal
recommendation, Marvel Mystery Oil™, available in the automotive
section of many stores.
Our skin oil is rather corrosive, and will leave rusty fingerprints
on steel within a few hours. Dust may allow oxygen to penetrate the
oil to the steel and thereby corrode your weapon, so a periodic dusting
and re-oil is a good idea. Please choose a wipe on oil, as many spray-on
oils will evaporate quickly. The best “preventative medicine”
is to wipe down all parts of the sword with an oiled rag at the end
of every rehearsal and performance or anytime the weapon is handled.
Regular maintenance will help to ensure that your weapon remains at
its best and that you rarely ever have to actually scour away rust.
If, despite your best preventative efforts, surface rusting does occur,
it can be removed with 600 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper, fine grit
erasing blocks or very fine grade steel wool and some lightweight
oil. Begin with the finest grade possible. If the rust does not come
off, gradually increase the coarseness until it does. It is best to
use the finest grit or coarseness possible to avoid scratching the
steel excessively. If scratches do appear you can “fade”
them out by repeating the removal process multiple times, each time
with a decreasing coarseness of steel wool.
If the weapon is to be stored untouched for long periods of time we
would recommend a paste wax finish be applied to the steel components.
Renaissance Wax™ is a great product and most paste wax for cars
will work as well. The key is to allow no oxygen to get to the weapon
to start corrosion.
Another common maintenance issue that may arise is the development
of small nicks or “dings” in the weapon (usually just
the blade but possibly the quillons/cross-guard of a broadsword).
Note that proper stage combat techniques as taught by trained professional
Fight Directors (such as those endorsed by the SAFD), and performed
correctly by the actors, should lessen if not eradicate the need for
this sort of maintenance. If your blades continually develop deep
nicks then it is likely that the actors are using too much force.
For recommendations of qualified personnel in your area please contact
us at any time.
That being said, a flat metal file (do not machine grind!)
is all that is needed to smooth away these nicks, which can become
as sharp and dangerous as a saw blade if not attended to. Make sure
to file as little as possible to avoid excess wear on the blade and
be careful that you are not sharpening the blade as you do so. Again,
it cannot be overstated, that there is nothing better than having
a knowledgeable Fight Director’s guidance.
Almost all of our swords and daggers are assembled with a threaded
tang (the part of the blade that passes through the grip), which screws
into the pommel (the round or cylindrical piece that holds the hilt
together and counterbalances the blade). This allows the weapon to
be disassembled if necessary to replace the blade or other parts of
the hilt. Before using the weapon check to make sure that the pommel
is on securely. Note that the pommel should only be on “hand
tight” and should never be tightened with a wrench, vise, pliers
or any other tool.
Leather scabbards, hangers, and frogs may be treated with any good
quality leather cleaner/preservative. Leather grips should be allowed
to age naturally. Wire wrapped grips should stay clean with a minimum
of care. It is only when they are exposed to moisture and left to
sit that they may develop rust.
Swords, daggers and other weapons are tools that were designed by
Man for use against only one thing; Man. What they were NOT designed
for is striking concrete walls, chopping down trees, or smashing unwanted
furniture or automobiles. This will destroy any real sword no matter
what it is made of or how it was made. Even weapons designed for stage
combat cannot hold up to this type of abuse.
And finally, there is no substitute for having
a trained and qualified Fight Director to instruct your actors in
the care and use of these or any weapons. The
Society of American Fight Directors (SAFD), Fight
Directors Canada (FDC) and the British
Academy of Stage and Screen Combat (BASSC) are excellent resources.
Another great resource in the New York, New Jersey, Connecticut area
is Combat Incorporated located
in Manhattan, NY.
If you have any questions, please do
not hesitate to call or email.
Robb Hunter
